Learn how to sublimate a wine tumbler with colorful designs!
Have you ever looked at a project that looks super simple, but once you start there’s much, much more to it! That’s how I felt while learning how to sublimate a wine tumbler! The top part is similar to a skinny tumbler, but bringing the printed sublimation design down around the curved bottom involves planning, careful trimming, and a lot of special tape! But I’ve learned a lot through testing and now get to share it all with you!
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Additional content for this project (templates and customization tutorials) is available in the ADVANCE program! Learn more about ADVANCE here.
Watch the full step-by-step tutorial on how to sublimate a wine tumbler on my Youtube channel!
Adding a design to the top half of a wine tumbler is very similar to working with a skinny tumbler, but you don’t have the straight lower edge to help with alignment, so careful placement is important.
But, when you want to bring a design along the tumbler’s curve, how can you make a flat sublimation design fit?
If you look very closely, you can see that the design goes around the curve in strips. There will be a little bit of overlap, so that’s why picking a design with vertical elements or mottling toward the bottom helps blend it all together.
I’ll show you how to cut and secure the strips in the full video, and it really comes down to patience and good tape. Surprisingly, I found that the heat resistant tape makes all the difference. The yellow tape I’ve listed below is stretchier than others I’ve tried, so it can really take the tumbler’s shape. And while I’ve had other yellow tapes leave slight discoloration on sublimation projects, that wasn’t a problem here. If you’re making the half wrap, the usual Cricut blue heat-resistant tape worked well.
Of course, once the design is secured, you need to sublimate your tumbler. I used a combination of shrink-wrap tubes, a heat gun, and a craft-specific convection oven to sublimate my designs with the best results. I’ll show you how to prepare the design files in Google Docs to perfectly fit your blank whether you’re decorating the top flat section or around the curve. My supply list below has links to everything you’ll need for the perfect transfer. If you want to learn more about sublimation methods, my Sublimation Cookbook is a tool to get you started!
Did you notice initials on a few of the projects? They’re examples of how you can customize a digital file with the right tools and skills, which I can teach you in my ADVANCE program. With just a few minutes, you can create a one of a kind tumbler! Learn more about ADVANCE here!
Let me show you how to sublimate a wine tumbler! This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience (which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link I will earn a small commission but it won’t cost you a penny more, there is no additional cost)! Read myfull disclosure policy.
Quick Links to Information in this Post
Materials to Sublimate A Wine Tumbler
View my Amazon shopping list to see exactly what I used!
- 12 oz Sublimation Wine Tumbler with straight sides
- Sublimation Printer – I used a converted Epson EcoTank ET-2800
- Sublimation Ink
- 105g 8.5” x 11” Sublimation Paper (for full wraps) -or-
- 125g 8.5” x 11” Sublimation Paper (for partial wraps)
- 10mm Yellow Heat Resistant Tape (easier to use for full wraps and will work for partial wraps) -OR-
- .75” Blue Heat Resistant Tape (works with partial wraps, not as easy to use on full wraps)
- Convection Oven only for sublimation
- Oven Thermometer
- Heat Resistant Gloves
- Heat Resistant Tape
- Heat Shrink Wrap (if your tumblers don’t come with them)
- Heat gun
- Heat Resistant Pad
- Fan
- Looped Tape Measure
- Scraper
- Scissors -OR-
- Paper Trimmer
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Lint Free Cloth
- Star Pinchers, optional to help hold the tumbler wrap in place during taping
Optional: Tumbler Cradle
Optional: Neoprene Bands
Optional: Cutting Mat with Ruler Marks (to help with cut placement for full wrap
- Design #610 (My free PNG design files are available in my free resource library – get the password by filling out the form at the bottom of this page)
How to Sublimate a Wine Tumbler
How To Sublimate A Wine Tumbler
Yield: 1
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Active Time: 30 minutes
Total Time: 35 minutes
Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Estimated Cost: $5.00
Learn how to sublimate a wine tumbler with partial or full coverage!
Materials
- 12 oz Sublimation Wine Tumbler with straight sides
- 105g 8.5” x 11” Sublimation Paper (for full wraps) -or-
- 125g 8.5” x 11” Sublimation Paper (for partial wraps)
- Design #610 (My free PNG design files are available in my free resource library - get the password by filling out the form at the bottom of this page)
Tools
- Sublimation Printer - I used a converted Epson EcoTank ET-2800 Inkjet Printer
- Sublimation Ink
- Sublimation-Specific Convection Oven
- Oven Thermometer
- Fan for Ventilation
- Heat Resistant Gloves
- 10mm Yellow Heat Resistant Tape -OR-
- .75” Blue Heat Resistant Tape
- Heat Shrink Wrap Sleeves (if your tumblers don’t come with them)
- Heat Gun
- Scraper
- Looped Tape Measure
- Paper Trimmer
- Scissors
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Lint Free Cloth
- Optional: Star Pinchers
- Optional: Tumbler Cradle
- Optional: Neoprene Bands
- Optional: Cutting Mat with Ruler Marks (to help with cut placement for full wrap
Instructions
STEP 1: GET MY FREE WINE TUMBLER WRAP DESIGNS
First, download my Wine Tumbler Wrap designs from my free library – look for Design #610. Alternatively, you can use the Save This Project form near the top of this post and the design link will be emailed to you.
In the PNG folder, there are four sublimation designs.
- A full wrap that says “But First, Wine!”
- A half wrap that says “Sip Sip Hooray!”
- A full wrap that says “May Contain Wine.”
- And a half wrap that says “Love The Wine You’re With!”
I’ll show you how to prepare and sublimate both a half wrap and a full wrap.
TIP: If you’re not sure how to download zip files, go to jennifermaker.com/svgs because the steps are similar for PNGs and Google Docs.
OPTION 1: FULL WINE TUMBLER DESIGN WRAP
STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR FULL WINE TUMBLER WRAP DESIGN
- Use a looped tape measure to find your tumbler’s circumference, or the measurement around the cup in the straight-walled section.
TIP: Feed the small edge through the window like a belt, then put it around the tumbler. - Carefully pull the tape’s edges away from each other, keeping it straight and making the tape tight. The number at the arrows is your circumference!
NOTE: I find the straight-walled wine tumblers easier to wrap than the ones that bow out near the base.
- Take the tape off, undo the loop, and use it to measure the height.
NOTE: Keep it straight and don’t include any area without the sublimation coating, like a metal lip. - The tumblers listed in my material list are 4.57" tall and 10” around
- Add .5” to your height measurement to make sure you’ll cover the entire white area, and add 1/16 - 1/8” (.0625” - .125”) to the width to allow for a slight overlap at the seam.
NOTE: I planned to make my full wine tumbler design at 10.125” wide and 5.07” tall for use with the 12 oz. straight tumbler from my materials list. - Open Google Docs in the Google Chrome web browser on your computer.
NOTE: You will need a free Google account to use the free Google Docs software.
TIP: You can also download and open the Google Docs app, but be aware that you won’t be able to install or access any printer profiles from a mobile device, and you’re also limited in features, so I do not recommend it on a mobile device. - Click “Blank document” at the top left to open a new document.
- Go to the File menu and select “Page setup.”
- Check the box next to “Landscape” to better match the blank.
- Change your margins to “0” to use more of the page.
- Change your Paper Size to match your sublimation paper size. I’m using 8.5” x 11” or letter-size paper.
- Click “OK” to apply the settings.
- Go to the Insert menu, select “Image,” and select “Upload from Computer.”
- Select the sublimation design you want to use. Make sure to pick a full wrap design if you want to make a full wrap tumbler.
TIP: It’s probably in your Downloads folder. - Click “Open.”
- To resize the design, right-click the image and select “Image Options.”
- Select “Size & Rotation.”
- Keep the “Lock aspect ratio” box checked to maintain the design’s proportions and change the “Width” field to the measurement you recorded when measuring the tumbler, including the addition for the seam overlap. The Height will automatically adjust proportionately. For the full wrap, I made my design 10.125” x 5.07” but Google Docs may round the width up to 10.13”.
- Click the image and select the “Wrap text” icon from the menu that appears below it.
- Click and drag the image to the center of your page, as that ensures it won’t get cut off at the edges and you have plenty of space to trim the edges.
- Click the area that says “Untitled document” at the top and type a name for the file.
- Go to the File menu and choose “Print.”
- Select your sublimation printer under “Destination.”
- Click the arrow beside “More Settings” and select “Print Using System Dialog.”
- Your print menu may look different - just make sure the sublimation printer is selected, that you “mirror” the print, and select the highest quality matte paper setting.
- Load sublimation paper correctly into your sublimation printer.
NOTE: Check the packaging for information on how to load the paper. - Click “Print.”
- Allow the print to dry before handling it, as the ink can smear.
NOTE: The printed design will appear lighter before pressing.
STEP 3: SUBLIMATE YOUR FULL WINE TUMBLER WRAP
IMPORTANT: As with all sublimation projects, turn on a fan and open a window to improve your ventilation before beginning.
- Use a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter with some rubbing alcohol to clean the tumbler for a better transfer.
- Pull out the paper trimmer’s guide extension.
NOTE: Since we want to avoid a gap or distracting seam when we wrap the design around the tumbler, there's a special way to trim the design. You can use scissors, but a paper trimmer will make straight cuts that are easier to use. - Place the printed image face up so the right edge of the ink is along the cutting line.
- Press the paper up against the top guide to make sure the cut will be straight.
- Hold the paper in place and lower the fold-down ruler with the blade onto your material.
NOTE: You can press down on the ruler to keep the material in position, just don’t get close to the blade. - Use your other hand to press and drag down on the blade and draw it down the straight line in a smooth motion.
- Then, lift the ruler and remove the print.
- Place the print face down.
- We want a slight overlap at the seam, but doubling up the ink can create a dark section, so add a piece of heat-resistant tape straight along the other short edge so about .25” of the design’s ink is overlapped.
TIP: You should be able to see where the ink ends through the paper to help with placement. - Flip the paper face up and use Steps 3-7 to trim the white paper away from the second short edge (the one you just taped).
- Rotate the paper 90 degrees and use steps 3-7 to trim away the white paper above the design so the bottom section is ready to cut.
- Line it up the same way and repeat the cut along the bottom.
- Place the print face down, making sure the design is at the top.
- Measure 2” up from the bottom edge and draw a horizontal light pencil line.
NOTE: When you cut slits in the paper later, you do not want to cut any higher than that line, or you risk interfering with the design. - Starting from one side along the bottom edge of the paper, make light pencil marks every .5” across.
NOTE: If you’re using different heat-resistant tape, make sure your marks are slightly wider apart than the tape’s width. - Repeat Step 15 to add light pencil marks every .5” across the horizontal line, too.
- Use your ruler to connect the first top and bottom marks with a straight vertical line down the paper.
- Connect the rest of the marks the same way.
- Use scissors to cut from the bottom edge up to the horizontal line at every ½” mark.
- Place the tumbler on your work surface with the open edge at the top.
- Make sure the print is correctly oriented and wrap it around the cup so the ink touches the surface with the cuts at the bottom.
NOTE: Be careful not to crease or tear the cut pieces at the bottom because they can damage the finished result. - Where the paper’s edges overlap, place the taped edge on the tumbler and the plain paper on top.
NOTE: Double-check that the tape doesn’t extend past the paper and trim it if it does, or it will keep some ink from transferring. - Don't let the print shift and gently lay the tumbler on its side with the seam up.
NOTE: Our next goal is to secure the print to the tumbler as tightly as possible. If there are gaps between the surface and design, you might get white spots or other defects in the final result. Using pinchers can help hold everything in place. - Place a piece of heat-resistant tape securely on the outside edge, but don't let it touch the paper on the other side of the seam yet.
- Use one hand to hold the lower layer of the design tight against the tumbler and pull the loose section of tape as tight as possible, then press it in place on the lower layer.
- To check if the paper is tight enough, try to press hard on either edge of the paper and smooth them toward the taped seam. If anything ripples or comes away from the tumbler, remove your tape and try again.
- Once the paper is secure, add tape to cover the seam vertically, allowing some to extend past the top edge and about .25” below the horizontal line.
- With your thumb on the adhered tape, pull the extra tape tightly over the edge and secure it inside the tumbler.
NOTE: You need to pull the tape to press the design tight against the tumbler, but don’t pull so hard that the rest of the wrap shifts on the cup. - Use a scraper or your fingernail to burnish the seam thoroughly.
- Rotate the tumbler so the taped seam is on the work surface and add another piece of tape directly across from it using steps 27-29.
NOTE: Since we’ll need to tug the tabbed sections to secure them, adding this second anchor point at the top edge will keep the wrap from pulling off of the tumbler. - Starting with the tab at the taped seam, smooth the paper down toward the tumbler’s bottom so it is tight against the surface, and use a small piece of heat-resistant tape to secure it to the base.
NOTE: The tape can go onto the silver disc at the bottom, but don’t go beyond it and back onto the sublimation surface. - Use a scraper or your fingernail to burnish the tape to the tumbler and into the indent on the bottom.
TIP: It’s important to work out all the air pockets to get a perfect transfer. - Repeat Steps 31-32 on every other tab around the tumbler, skipping the tabs in between for now.
- When you’re back at the beginning, place a piece of tape over each side of the first unsecured tab and extend them beyond the edge.
- Use one hand to pull the tab toward the bottom of the tumbler and your other thumb to press the paper and tape tight against the surface until the tape touches the blank.
NOTE: The tape will slightly overlap the previously-secured tabs. - Burnish the paper and tape from the center to the paper on either side and then down to the bottom.
NOTE: This is very important because we want to hide the seams as much as possible, which is more challenging on a curved surface and with overlapping sections. If there are any ripples, the seams will be more noticeable. Finishing by smoothing from the main design area off to the bottom makes sure any issues are on the undecorated area. - Use Steps 34-36 to work around the tumbler, securing and burnishing the rest of the tabs.
- Without cutting the tape off the roll, secure its leading end to the design pulling it away from the seam on the drawn horizontal line.
- Hold the tumbler in place and pull the tape roll to keep it taut.
- Roll the tumbler while keeping the tape taut to go all the way around the cup.
- When you get back to the beginning, angle the tape roll to slightly overlap the last length but cover more of the design below it as you continue around the tumbler.
NOTE: This takes a good amount of tape, but it adds pressure in a different angle than the tabbed pieces, so you’re more likely to smooth any bubbles and get an even transfer. - When you reach the flat base, cut the tape from the roll.
- Starting at the seam, burnish the new tape horizontally all the way around, then carefully up and down.
- Open up a shrink-wrap sleeve and pull it over your tumbler. If the tube is 10” long, it can be cut in half to 5” in height to fit the tumbler better.
TIP: Some sublimation tumblers come with shrink-wrap sleeves, but not all do. If you order them separately, be sure they’re the right size to easily fit your tumbler’s width. - Put on your heat-resistant gloves and set a heat-safe item like a pressing pad nearby.
- Use your heat gun on a low setting to slowly heat the wrap so it conforms to the tumbler.
TIP: Start with the straight edges and then work on the curve and finally the bottom. - Make sure most of the wrinkles are smooth, but don’t make it too tight or it will pull apart in the oven.
NOTE: For added security, you can use a silicone band to keep the top edge in place. - The tumbler will be warm, so set it on the pressing pad when you’re done.
- Place a silicone baking mat onto the sublimation convection oven’s wire tray to keep the tumbler from rolling later.
- Put an oven thermometer right in the center to make sure the temperature is correct.
- Heat the convection oven to 375℉ (191℃).
- When the convection oven is at the right temperature, put on your heat-resistant gloves and place the tumbler on its side on the baking mat.
- Heat the prepared tumbler in the oven for six minutes, giving it a quarter turn every minute and a half to even out the heat.
- When the time is up, keep your heat-safe gloves on and remove the tumbler from the oven, placing it on a heat-safe surface like the pressing mat to cool for a few minutes.
- Remove the wrap, tape, and design while the tumbler is still slightly warm.
OPTION 2: HALF WINE TUMBLER DESIGN WRAP
STEP 2: PREPARE YOUR HALF WINE TUMBLER WRAP DESIGN
- Follow the preparation and printing process from Step 2 of the full wrap tutorial, but select a PNG that has white at the bottom and resize it to 10.125” x 3.06” to fit just the upper section of the wine tumblers.
NOTE: Since the half wrap doesn’t need to shape to the tumbler’s curve, you can use heavier sublimation paper.
STEP 3: SUBLIMATE YOUR HALF WINE TUMBLER WRAP
- Follow steps 1-11 of Step 3 in the full wrap tutorial to trim the top and side white edges away from your design including adding the heat-resistant tape to one edge.
- For the bottom edge, trim the design to 3” tall, leaving some white space.
NOTE: This height will keep the design on the flat sides so you don’t have to worry about the tumbler’s curve. - Place the tumbler on your work surface with the open edge at the top.
- Make sure the print is correctly oriented and wrap it around the cup so the ink touches the surface.
- Where the edges overlap, make sure the overlap is over the top of the edge with the tape and does not extend past the tape.
- Don't let the print shift and gently lay the tumbler on its side with the seam up.
NOTE: Our next goal is to secure the print to the tumbler as tightly as possible. If there are gaps between the surface and design, you might get white spots or other defects in the final result. Using pinchers can help hold everything in place. - Place a piece of heat-resistant tape securely on the outside edge, but don't let it touch the paper on the other side of the seam yet.
- Use one hand to hold the lower layer of the design tight against the tumbler.
- Pull the loose section of tape as tight as possible, then press it in place on the lower layer.
- To check if the paper is tight enough, try to press hard on either edge of the paper and smooth them toward the taped seam. If anything ripples or comes away from the tumbler, remove your tape and try again.
- Once the paper is secure, add tape to cover the seam vertically, allowing some to extend past the edges on the top and bottom of the design.
- With your thumb on the adhered tape, pull the extra tape as hard as you can over the edge and secure it inside the tumbler.
- Use a scraper or your fingernail to burnish the seam thoroughly.
- Secure the bottom edge of the design to the tumbler by wrapping one long piece of tape over the entire edge around the circumference of the tumbler.
NOTE: This will keep the design in place and make it easier to slide on the shrink wrap sleeve later. - Burnish the tape to the paper and cup.
- Use steps 44-55 from Step 3 of the Full Wine Tumbler Wrap’s sublimation process to finish preparing and heating the half wrap version.
STEP 4: SHOW IT OFF
Here are my finished full and half wine tumbler wraps!
Notes
Print Size:
Half Wrap: 10.125” x 3.06”
Full Wrap: 10.125” x 5.07”
Fonts Used:
Farmland Acres Extras Free Alternative: Heart Warming Extra
Sweetie Almeera Extras Free Alternative: Alfabilder
Splash Free Alternative: Copy Duck
Timberly Script Free Alternative: Timberly
Wonderful Display Font Free Alternative: Bestoom
Shoelace Scrawl Free Alternative: Goldie Rainbow
Beachwood Sans Free Alternative: Lobster
Hello November Sans Free Alternative: Justine
Care Instructions: Hand wash with gentle soap, warm water, and soft cloth. Allow to air dry.
Quick Answers to Your Questions About How to Sublimate a Wine Tumbler
Q: Where is the customizable wine tumbler design?
A: The custom wine tumblers are examples of tumblers you can design yourself in my ADVANCE program. The initials were made in Google Drawings using my customizable digital download files. You can easily make your own personal versions and similar designs in my ADVANCE program without being a graphic design pro! Learn more about ADVANCE here for further information!
Q: Can you sublimate wine tumblers in a mug press?
A: There are mug presses that can add designs to sections of shaped tumblers, but I had the best results using a sublimation-specific convection oven since the heat must be consistent along the wine tumbler’s curve. A tumbler press may work well for the half wrap design.
Q: Can you sublimate on any tumbler?
A: No, you must use a physical product made to work with sublimation transfers or ink. I use high quality stainless steel sublimation wine tumblers with a white polymer coating. Plain stainless steel will not work correctly with sublimation ink or other sublimation craft supplies.
Q: How do I care for a sublimation tumbler?
A: Use mild soap and a soft cloth to avoid scratching the tumbler’s surface, which will damage the design.
Q: Why is my sublimation print color so dull?
A: Sublimation tumbler wraps look much duller on the paper than they do after they’re sublimated, so don’t worry if your printed PNG file looks faded or different colors than you expect. The vibrant colors will show when transferred to the sublimation blanks!
Q: Why is my sublimation not transferring evenly?
A: You may need to tweak your settings if you’re using materials other than the ones in my materials list. The sublimation printing process and transferring has a lot of variables, so it’s a good idea to have a backup tumbler in case of mistakes.
Q: What does ghosting mean in sublimation?
A: Ghosting can occur when a freshly sublimated object is moved around too much while it’s still hot. If the object and the sublimation transfer is still hot, the image is still sublimating. To avoid this, simply wait until your sublimated item has cooled off before handling or removing the paper, and don’t move it around more than you need to while it’s sublimating. It’s a natural effect of the sublimation process because the ink is in a gaseous state until it’s cooled.
Q: Where can I buy sublimation blanks?
A: If you order blanks online, look for sellers and items with 5-star reviews or a high average rating. A responsible company will have expert support from friendly representatives to answer any questions or provide requested information to interested buyers. If you’re in the United States, ordering from businesses that ship from within the country can be faster than shopping across the global marketplace. And when you open the package, make sure the physical item is in original condition and sublimation appropriate. You can often sign up for a seller’s mailing list to hear about sales and insider news like how to get free shipping!
Q: What else can I sublimate?
A: Good news! Depending on the blanks and digital designs you have available, the possibilities of sublimation are nearly endless! I’ve sublimated garden flags, mouse pads, mugs and more, but there are a whole host of items I’d like to try like license plates. If you have a physical end product in mind, check my free library for a downloadable file to fit it!
Q: Can I sell my wine tumblers or other designs I downloaded from your blog and made or are they just for personal use? Do you have a commercial use or small business use license?
A: Yes, you can sell handmade pieces or made-to-order items using these designs (with limitations) — please read about licenses here so you know what you can and cannot do. If you use them, please share photos with us! We love supporting small businesses and creative entrepreneurs!
Get my free PNG files to make your sublimation wine tumbler wrap!
I love seeing what you make with my designs and how you use them! Please share a photo of your wine tumblers in our Facebook group or tag me on social media with #jennifermaker.
Love,
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Jennifer
Jennifer Marx is a designer, an enthusiastic crafter, a lifelong teacher, and a proud overcomer of a variety of life's challenges. In her spare time she loves to play D&D and video games, garden, sew costumes, and go to Disney. She lives a full, happy life in beautiful Ann Arbor, Michigan with her partner Greg, her daughter Alexa, their two dogs, Hunter and Chloe, and their sassy orange cat, Butterscotch.